Updated the parts list to include a 56pF Capacitor since you can't get the 51pF anywhere in the US or online. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/savecartpro/index/savenewquote/qid/61519332376
Just a heads up to anyone else ordering; this parts list doesn't include the On/Off/On SPDT toggle for Glide, or the red LED, so you'll need to add those in as well as the sliders and all the screws/standoffs.
What is the part number (or make/model) for the slide pots you've used on this? I had some bourns 50K pots, but the footprint appears to be different. Thanks! I'm almost done my build - just waiting on a couple parts!
We also have the same type in stock here - (10k is fine for all pots in the PLL but the Delay time ,where you need 50k or 100k ) https://www.arcadiaelectronics.com/product-page/10k-linear-taper-slide-potentiometer-pcb-mount
the Bottom ones are female- male standoffs so they have a protruding side that holds the pcb and a second standoff on top connected to it via it’s female side. Then the top panel is closed with a 3mm screw.
ill post some pictures of how it’s supposed to look
Tayda doesn't carry 51pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor (C35). Can a 50pf capacitor be substituted?
Also do you have a side view of the standoffs installed for us dummies that can't figure out what goes where? I mean I get that the short standoffs are for the keyboard and the talls are for the other half, but what gets the 4 nuts? are the 6 female standoffs for the underside? Where? Thank you
Due to tolerance issues i can't say for sure that the trimmer voltages on my unit would produce the right notes. so I'd suggest using a tuner to dial in the correct notes.
Start from the top right, the highest note and tune it correctly with a tuner, then work your way one note at a time, the keyboard is set as on big incremental resistor that changes it's value according to the key you press.
My voltages are different. What is the method for tuning? What should the voltage be for the top note? I see 5v going to each key. When depressed I think I am at 3.5v for the top note. The next note drops almost a volt which is causing the issue I believe. The next notes drops almost a volt also. This too much voltage dropping continues for almost 1/2 of the keyboard, then each note drops off a percentage of a volt, which I assume should be the correct amount be key, rather than dropping close to a voltper key. The 10k trimmers should be set to what voltage or resistance for the first high note?
actually if you say it acts the same with or without the cap it it means that the cap was not doing what it’s supposed to do in the first place. do you happen to have any cap with about the same value you could check in it’s place?
Changed the Ics, put In the SMD bead, put in the center off switch. No change as expected. Took out the C35, oddly it does not change anything with it in out of the circuit. C14 changes the pitch but does not fix the issue.
since you said C35 should change the range and it stays the same with or without it, what would you think the issue could be? Do you have voltages or the ICs when powered?
Please check how you have your Master tune potentiometer set wile you're tuning the notes.
I recommend seting the master tune knob to zero so that you'll get a consistant referance voltage. (it is just a variable resistor in series wih the keyboard)
the 56pF cap is responsible for how low the frequencies of the VCO can be, are you sure it is not 5.6nF by any chance?
all the other aspects mentioned should not be directly relevant to the tunning
What could cause all the notes to be pushed to the top 6 keys?
They match the tone/key they should and I can tune them with the multi-turn trimmers. The notes seem to drop octaves quickly enough where the 6th note down is a LFO and the 7th is a very slow LFO, but the 8th note down it is to low of a frequency to hear/work as a note.
Changes right now are the jumped SMD bead, used a 56pf vs the 51pf listed, and missing the on/off/on switch due to the error in the Tayda cart. I bought the momentary switch, but did not solder it in. figured since it has the center off position, not having it on the PCB would be the same as off, and not have anything to do with my bunched notes/frequency issue.
The trimmers are correct per the silkscreen, but "upside down" per your example picture. Screw trimmer on the top side, vs the bottom as your example picture. I would expect the trimmers to work in either direction
Is the crystal sided? I have it with the text readable when looking at the PCB.
I have not broken the PCB into two parts yet. Testing the unit without the panel on it. When I put the panel on it, the touch pad, when switched on has a high-pitched consent note on, but still can change the notes of the keys when used. Other than the solid high note on, the touch pad has a range of notes to it.
All the sliders work. Filter section works. Delay section works. LFO section works.
You can either use a 100ohm resistor or Jumper the pads . a 100ohm would lower the voltage slightly, If you're going to use regulated power supply then a jumper would be just fine.
Does anyone know where I might purchase dual linear b100k pcb mount pot? I'm having a bit of trouble finding one in stock. thanks!
What model are the black knobs on the unit in your videos? Very into how they look.
Updated the parts list to include a 56pF Capacitor since you can't get the 51pF anywhere in the US or online. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/savecartpro/index/savenewquote/qid/61519332376
What is the part number (or make/model) for the slide pots you've used on this? I had some bourns 50K pots, but the footprint appears to be different. Thanks! I'm almost done my build - just waiting on a couple parts!
Hi
50pF is good
as for the standoffs ;
the Bottom ones are female- male standoffs so they have a protruding side that holds the pcb and a second standoff on top connected to it via it’s female side. Then the top panel is closed with a 3mm screw.
ill post some pictures of how it’s supposed to look
Tayda doesn't carry 51pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor (C35). Can a 50pf capacitor be substituted?
Also do you have a side view of the standoffs installed for us dummies that can't figure out what goes where? I mean I get that the short standoffs are for the keyboard and the talls are for the other half, but what gets the 4 nuts? are the 6 female standoffs for the underside? Where? Thank you
Here is the full Schematic for the PLL Organ
Thank you for the tuning info. It fixed my non-issue issue. Everything is good now!
Due to tolerance issues i can't say for sure that the trimmer voltages on my unit would produce the right notes. so I'd suggest using a tuner to dial in the correct notes.
Start from the top right, the highest note and tune it correctly with a tuner, then work your way one note at a time, the keyboard is set as on big incremental resistor that changes it's value according to the key you press.
-Adam
My voltages are different. What is the method for tuning? What should the voltage be for the top note? I see 5v going to each key. When depressed I think I am at 3.5v for the top note. The next note drops almost a volt which is causing the issue I believe. The next notes drops almost a volt also. This too much voltage dropping continues for almost 1/2 of the keyboard, then each note drops off a percentage of a volt, which I assume should be the correct amount be key, rather than dropping close to a voltper key. The 10k trimmers should be set to what voltage or resistance for the first high note?
Hi, Here re the pin Voltages for the PLL Organ Chips:
U5 (CD4046)
1 - 4.7mV
2 - 9V
3 - 0.5V
4 - 9V
5 - 0V
6 - 0V
7 - 0V
8 - 0V
9 - 0V
10 - 0.4V
11 - 0V
12 - 0.7V
13 - 5.1mV
14 - 0.4mV
15 - 4.6V
16 - -9V
U6 (CD4040)
1 - 9V
2 - 0.04V
3 - 39mV
4 - 39 mV
6 - 9V
7 - 0V
8 - 0V
9 - 9V
10 - 0V
11 - 0V
12 - 8.8V
11 - 0V
12 - 8.8V
13 - 8.8V
14 - 40mV
15 - 0V
16 - 9V
U8 (CD4069)
1 - 4.6V
2 - 1.2V
3 - 1.2V
4 - 9V
5 - 9V
6 - 0V
7 - 0V
8 - 9V
9 - 0V
10 - 9V
11 - 0V
12 - 9V
13 - 0V
14 - 0V
U10 (4558)
1 - 4.6V
2 - 4.5V
3 - 4.39V
4 - 0V
5 - 4.5V
6 - 4.5V
7 - 4.5V
8 - 9V
Yes, sockets on all the ICs.
That’s odd
ill check the voltages tomorrow and post it here .
did You use sockets for all the ICs?
-Adam
Yes, I swapped some around and tested the cap in my cap tester. No change. What should the voltage be on each side of C35?
Hi
actually if you say it acts the same with or without the cap it it means that the cap was not doing what it’s supposed to do in the first place. do you happen to have any cap with about the same value you could check in it’s place?
Changed the Ics, put In the SMD bead, put in the center off switch. No change as expected. Took out the C35, oddly it does not change anything with it in out of the circuit. C14 changes the pitch but does not fix the issue.
since you said C35 should change the range and it stays the same with or without it, what would you think the issue could be? Do you have voltages or the ICs when powered?
Hi
Please check how you have your Master tune potentiometer set wile you're tuning the notes.
I recommend seting the master tune knob to zero so that you'll get a consistant referance voltage. (it is just a variable resistor in series wih the keyboard)
the 56pF cap is responsible for how low the frequencies of the VCO can be, are you sure it is not 5.6nF by any chance?
all the other aspects mentioned should not be directly relevant to the tunning
-Adam
What could cause all the notes to be pushed to the top 6 keys?
They match the tone/key they should and I can tune them with the multi-turn trimmers. The notes seem to drop octaves quickly enough where the 6th note down is a LFO and the 7th is a very slow LFO, but the 8th note down it is to low of a frequency to hear/work as a note.
Changes right now are the jumped SMD bead, used a 56pf vs the 51pf listed, and missing the on/off/on switch due to the error in the Tayda cart. I bought the momentary switch, but did not solder it in. figured since it has the center off position, not having it on the PCB would be the same as off, and not have anything to do with my bunched notes/frequency issue.
The trimmers are correct per the silkscreen, but "upside down" per your example picture. Screw trimmer on the top side, vs the bottom as your example picture. I would expect the trimmers to work in either direction
Is the crystal sided? I have it with the text readable when looking at the PCB.
I have not broken the PCB into two parts yet. Testing the unit without the panel on it. When I put the panel on it, the touch pad, when switched on has a high-pitched consent note on, but still can change the notes of the keys when used. Other than the solid high note on, the touch pad has a range of notes to it.
All the sliders work. Filter section works. Delay section works. LFO section works.
Suggestions?
You can either use a 100ohm resistor or Jumper the pads . a 100ohm would lower the voltage slightly, If you're going to use regulated power supply then a jumper would be just fine.
-Adam
can the ferrite SMD be replaced by a 100ohm resistor? UPZ2012E121-4R0TF 100 OHM 25% 4A 0805
would like to power on to test, but it seems the power all runs through the ferrite bead? if this is not true, are there schematics anywhere?